Thursday, June 25, 2020

Where has it all gone...?

Jude and I watched an interview with Marcella Hazan and her husband Victor.

It got me to thinking and I looked up Victor Hazan.  He is known for his book on Italian wine. I came across this interview.

For me it a moving read.  A sense of nostalgia rose up and reminded me of my earliest memories of Paris.  There was a time when the food here was unique and wonderful. 

I remember having a great fish plate in a place that is long gone over near la tour Eiffel.  The flavors were brilliantly complemented by a white wine.

Then there was the time I ordered a bottle of vinted Mums and drank it all by myself.  I happily walked the streets of the Latin Quarter afterward enjoying a gorgeous late July warm summer evening.  The adventure had started in a rather empty Deux Magots.

Then there was the time I searched out the cheapest best rated restaurant in the city.  The wine was around 5 francs.  The plate was around 15 francs.  This was during a brief time when the French franc was 10 to 1 against the US dollar.  And you know what?  It was quite good and I really enjoyed the experience.

It's all too easy for me to look back and remember.  My memories remain clear. The city here has changed over the decades and I wonder what has happened to Paris.

I find that the original charm of the city of lights has been trampled to dust through years of tourists tromping through this place looking for that something that made it so attractive to experience in the first place.  The city has upended itself in its rush to emulate American business practices.  The traffic circulates very differently than it did years ago.

Coming back to food, the restaurants that cater to tourists offer such mediocre fare.  The tourists will be able to tell friends and family that they ate at such and such a place and who would ever know if the meal was actually no better than could be had back home?  The level of quality of experience here has dropped precipitously while prices have climbed into the stratosphere.

Certainly there are gems.  They tend to live quietly in overlooked out of the way little places.  The locals still can go for an excellent repas.  One place we know serves a brilliant cremant for around 3Euro, which bodes well for the coming 50cl cote de Rhone and incredible cassoulet. These kinds of places remain thankfully closely guarded secrets.

We now talk about finding the best dishes, the best restaurants, and best open air markets outside of Paris.  When we travel we are continually amazed at what we can find once we cross beyond the Perepherique.

All this came up because of something Vincent Hazan said about Venice.  I can't imagine going there these days.  Shiploads of tourists arrive and depart daily.  Yet Victor found something unique, there.  He and Marcella were able to live outside of the areas visited by tourists.  They were able to experience a different Venice from the one we typically see on video sharing sites.

Strange, isn't it? 


Halle Saint Pierre ~ Paris

Friday, June 19, 2020

Oh my...

I was reading an article in a recent New Yorker Magazine where the writer mentioned Marcella Hazan and what to do with the onion used to flavor a basic tomato sauce.

This reminded me that we have her complete works sitting on the bookshelf.

So, *flippity*flip*flip* went the pages... and... there it is.  Marcella's basic tomato sauce recipe.

Let's see here... she calls for Italian plum tomatoes... hmmm... in America tomatoes are closer cousins to cardboard than to anything edible... but we no longer live there... and our opportunities might be a bit different here in Paris...

Yesterday while shopping at our local Bio C'est Bon I spied the very kind called for in her recipe.  I weighed out a pound of them, picked up a pretty little onion, and remembered I had the right amount of butter in the freezer.

Having just finished following her directions I have seen the light, as it were.  Oh.  My.  Gawd!  _This_ is what real tomatoes taste like. 

The sauce is gorgeously simple and is absolutely brilliant.

I'm mildly surprised the Church hasn't yet risen Marcella Hazan to sainthood.




Monday, June 8, 2020

A quick French lesson for the day...

My father sent me a very good video on how to order coffee when in France.  Here it is.




This ignited me to thinking of ways of ordering other drinks.  Here is what I replied to my father.

There's an expression that I use when ordering at a bar.  It's called "un canon", or a cannon, as in artillery piece.  Like what Napoleon used to lob at the English, Spanish, Germans, and Russians.  What is means is a glass of wine (usually red, but can be white), drank at the bar, paid for quickly, and away we go.

There's also an expression I use, which cracks up the locals because it's an old expression and it's "un remontant", or a drink that remounts ones spirits.  That is to say, builds one's strength.  A refreshment, if you will.  It can be anything you specify after surprising the barman with such an old expression.

The last one for today comes from a famous book titled Zazi dans le metro or Zazi in the metro.  The saying goes like this.  I'll have some water of the rifle - "...je vais prendre l'eau de fusile".  This really opens their eyes if they've ever read that book and we all have an excellent laugh.  Conversations that follow are usually light and easy, almost like you're one of the locals, or something.  The drink itself is typically a water of life - "un eau de vie", but again, can be anything you specify.

If you've ever read Zazi dan le metro you might remember that the barman suggested an update to the expression l'eau de fusile.  The modernization suggested was a l'eau nucléaire, or nuclear water.  In the book this was followed with a question of why one wouldn't drink un amaro (Italian patent medicine) for one's health.  It would be better for you.  But that's a topic for another time.

There you have it.  Your oh so serious French lesson for today.  With a helpful dash of culture thrown in as a bonus.


Nice in Color ~ 2020
 
Here is a nice little wateringhole in Nice.
They speak excellent English there.

Friday, June 5, 2020

What (some of) the Irish think of America these days...

Irish Times-April 25, 2020-By Fintan O’Toole:

 

THE WORLD HAS LOVED, HATED AND ENVIED THE U.S. NOW, FOR THE FIRST TIME, WE PITY IT

 

Over more than two centuries, the United States has stirred a very wide range of feelings in the rest of the world: love and hatred, fear and hope, envy and contempt, awe and anger. But there is one emotion that has never been directed towards the US until now: pity.

 

However bad things are for most other rich democracies, it is hard not to feel sorry for Americans. Most of them did not vote for Donald Trump in 2016. Yet they are locked down with a malignant narcissist who, instead of protecting his people from Covid-19, has amplified its lethality. The country Trump promised to make great again has never in its history seemed so pitiful.

 

Will American prestige ever recover from this shameful episode? The US went into the coronavirus crisis with immense advantages: precious weeks of warning about what was coming, the world’s best concentration of medical and scientific expertise, effectively limitless financial resources, a military complex with stunning logistical capacity and most of the world’s leading technology corporations. Yet it managed to make itself the global epicentre of the pandemic.

 

As the American writer George Packer puts it in the current edition of the Atlantic, “The United States reacted ... like Pakistan or Belarus – like a country with shoddy infrastructure and a dysfunctional government whose leaders were too corrupt or stupid to head off mass suffering.”

 

It is one thing to be powerless in the face of a natural disaster, quite another to watch vast power being squandered in real time – wilfully, malevolently, vindictively. It is one thing for governments to fail (as, in one degree or another, most governments did), quite another to watch a ruler and his supporters actively spread a deadly virus. Trump, his party and Rupert Murdoch’s Fox News became vectors of the pestilence.

 

The grotesque spectacle of the president openly inciting people (some of them armed) to take to the streets to oppose the restrictions that save lives is the manifestation of a political death wish. What are supposed to be daily briefings on the crisis, demonstrative of national unity in the face of a shared challenge, have been used by Trump merely to sow confusion and division. They provide a recurring horror show in which all the neuroses that haunt the American subconscious dance naked on live TV.

 

If the plague is a test, its ruling political nexus ensured that the US would fail it at a terrible cost in human lives. In the process, the idea of the US as the world’s leading nation – an idea that has shaped the past century – has all but evaporated.

 

Other than the Trump impersonator Jair Bolsonaro in Brazil, who is now looking to the US as the exemplar of anything other than what not to do? How many people in Düsseldorf or Dublin are wishing they lived in Detroit or Dallas?

 

It is hard to remember now but, even in 2017, when Trump took office, the conventional wisdom in the US was that the Republican Party and the broader framework of US political institutions would prevent him from doing too much damage. This was always a delusion, but the pandemic has exposed it in the most savage ways.

 

Abject surrender

What used to be called mainstream conservatism has not absorbed Trump – he has absorbed it. Almost the entire right-wing half of American politics has surrendered abjectly to him. It has sacrificed on the altar of wanton stupidity the most basic ideas of responsibility, care and even safety.

 

Thus, even at the very end of March, 15 Republican governors had failed to order people to stay at home or to close non-essential businesses. In Alabama, for example, it was not until April 3rd that governor Kay Ivey finally issued a stay-at-home order.

 

In Florida, the state with the highest concentration of elderly people with underlying conditions, governor Ron DeSantis, a Trump mini-me, kept the beach resorts open to students travelling from all over the US for spring break parties. Even on April 1st, when he issued restrictions, DeSantis exempted religious services and “recreational activities”.

 

Georgia governor Brian Kemp, when he finally issued a stay-at-home order on April 1st, explained: “We didn’t know that [the virus can be spread by people without symptoms] until the last 24 hours.”

 

This is not mere ignorance – it is deliberate and homicidal stupidity. There is, as the demonstrations this week in US cities have shown, plenty of political mileage in denying the reality of the pandemic. It is fuelled by Fox News and far-right internet sites, and it reaps for these politicians millions of dollars in donations, mostly (in an ugly irony) from older people who are most vulnerable to the coronavirus.

 

It draws on a concoction of conspiracy theories, hatred of science, paranoia about the “deep state” and religious providentialism (God will protect the good folks) that is now very deeply infused in the mindset of the American right.

 

Trump embodies and enacts this mindset, but he did not invent it. The US response to the coronavirus crisis has been paralysed by a contradiction that the Republicans have inserted into the heart of US democracy. On the one hand, they want to control all the levers of governmental power. On the other they have created a popular base by playing on the notion that government is innately evil and must not be trusted.

 

The contradiction was made manifest in two of Trump’s statements on the pandemic: on the one hand that he has “total authority”, and on the other that “I don’t take responsibility at all”. Caught between authoritarian and anarchic impulses, he is incapable of coherence.

 

Fertile ground

But this is not just Donald Trump. The crisis has shown definitively that Trump’s presidency is not an aberration. It has grown on soil long prepared to receive it. The monstrous blossoming of misrule has structure and purpose and strategy behind it.

 

There are very powerful interests who demand “freedom” in order to do as they like with the environment, society and the economy. They have infused a very large part of American culture with the belief that “freedom” is literally more important than life. My freedom to own assault weapons trumps your right not to get shot at school. Now, my freedom to go to the barber (“I Need a Haircut” read one banner this week in St Paul, Minnesota) trumps your need to avoid infection.

 

Usually when this kind of outlandish idiocy is displaying itself, there is the comforting thought that, if things were really serious, it would all stop. People would sober up. Instead, a large part of the US has hit the bottle even harder.

 

And the president, his party and their media allies keep supplying the drinks. There has been no moment of truth, no shock of realisation that the antics have to end. No one of any substance on the US right has stepped in to say: get a grip, people are dying here.

 

That is the mark of how deep the trouble is for the US – it is not just that Trump has treated the crisis merely as a way to feed tribal hatreds but that this behaviour has become normalised. When the freak show is live on TV every evening, and the star is boasting about his ratings, it is not really a freak show any more. For a very large and solid bloc of Americans, it is reality.

 

And this will get worse before it gets better. Trump has at least eight more months in power. In his inaugural address in 2017, he evoked “American carnage” and promised to make it stop. But now that the real carnage has arrived, he is revelling in it. He is in his element.

 

As things get worse, he will pump more hatred and falsehood, more death-wish defiance of reason and decency, into the groundwater. If a new administration succeeds him in 2021, it will have to clean up the toxic dump he leaves behind. If he is re-elected, toxicity will have become the lifeblood of American politics.

 

Either way, it will be a long time before the rest of the world can imagine America being great again.

Wading into politics... sorry...

From a friend who found this on one of the social media sites. I have no idea who Adam-Troy Castro is. So keep that in mind, too. ->

THIS WAS ON SOMEONE’S PAGE: An anguished question from a Trump supporter: ‘Why do liberals think Trump supporters are stupid?’

THE SERIOUS ANSWER:
Here’s what the majority of anti-Trump voters honestly feel about Trump supporters en masse:

That when you saw a man who had owned a fraudulent University, intent on scamming poor people, you thought "Fine." (https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/onpolitics/2018/04/10/trump-university-settlement-judge-finalized/502387002/)

That when you saw a man who had made it his business practice to stiff his creditors, you said, "Okay." (https://www.thedailybeast.com/trump-hotel-paid-millions-in-fines-for-unpaid-work)

That when you heard him proudly brag about his own history of sexual abuse, you said, "No problem." (https://abcnews.go.com/Politics/list-trumps-accusers-allegations-sexual-misconduct/story?id=51956410)

That when he made up stories about seeing Muslim-Americans in the thousands cheering the destruction of the World Trade Center, you said, "Not an issue." (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/fact-checker/wp/2015/11/22/donald-trumps-outrageous-claim-that-thousands-of-new-jersey-muslims-celebrated-the-911-attacks/)

That when you saw him brag that he could shoot a man on Fifth Avenue and you wouldn't care, you exclaimed, "He sure knows me." (https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/2019/10/23/president-donald-trump-could-shoot-someone-without-prosecution/4073405002/)

That when you heard him relating a story of an elderly guest of his country club, an 80-year old man, who fell off a stage and hit his head, to Trump replied: “‘Oh my God, that’s disgusting,’ and I turned away. I couldn’t—you know, he was right in front of me, and I turned away. I didn’t want to touch him. He was bleeding all over the place. And I felt terrible, because it was a beautiful white marble floor, and now it had changed color. Became very red.” You said, "That's cool!" (https://www.gq.com/story/donald-trump-howard-stern-story)

That when you saw him mock the disabled, you thought it was the funniest thing you ever saw. (https://www.nbcnews.com/politics/2016-election/donald-trump-criticized-after-he-appears-mock-reporter-serge-kovaleski-n470016)

That when you heard him brag that he doesn't read books, you said, "Well, who has time?" (https://www.theatlantic.com/politics/archive/2018/01/americas-first-post-text-president/549794/)

That when the Central Park Five were compensated as innocent men convicted of a crime they didn't commit, and he angrily said that they should still be in prison, you said, "That makes sense." (https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/politics/2019/06/19/what-trump-has-said-central-park-five/1501321001/)
That when you heard him tell his supporters to beat up protesters and that he would hire attorneys, you thought, "Yes!" (https://www.latimes.com/politics/la-na-trump-campaign-protests-20160313-story.html)

That when you heard him tell one rally to confiscate a man's coat before throwing him out into the freezing cold, you said, "What a great guy!" (https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/donald-trump-orders-protesters-coat-is-confiscated-and-he-is-sent-into-the-cold-a6802756.html)

That you have watched the parade of neo-Nazis and white supremacists with whom he curries favor, while refusing to condemn outright Nazis, and you have said, "Thumbs up!" (https://www.theatlantic.com/politics/archive/2018/08/why-cant-trump-just-condemn-nazis/567320/)

That you hear him unable to talk to foreign dignitaries without insulting their countries and demanding that they praise his electoral win, you said, "That's the way I want my President to be." (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/trump-insult-foreign-countries-leaders_n_59dd2769e4b0b26332e76d57)

That you have watched him remove expertise from all layers of government in favor of people who make money off of eliminating protections in the industries they're supposed to be regulating and you have said, "What a genius!" (https://www.politico.com/agenda/story/2017/12/29/138-trump-policy-changes-2017-000603)

That you have heard him continue to profit from his businesses, in part by leveraging his position as President, to the point of overcharging the Secret Service for space in the properties he owns, and you have said, "That's smart!" (https://www.usnews.com/opinion/articles/2018-03-05/how-is-donald-trump-profiting-from-the-presidency-let-us-count-the-ways)

That you have heard him say that it was difficult to help Puerto Rico because it was in the middle of water and you have said, "That makes sense." (https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/politics/wp/2017/09/26/the-very-big-ocean-between-here-and-puerto-rico-is-not-a-perfect-excuse-for-a-lack-of-aid/)

That you have seen him start fights with every country from Canada to New Zealand while praising Russia and quote, "falling in love" with the dictator of North Korea, and you have said, "That's statesmanship!" (https://www.cnn.com/2019/07/02/politics/donald-trump-dictators-kim-jong-un-vladimir-putin/index.html)

That Trump separated children from their families and put them in cages, managed to lose track of 1500 kids, has opened a tent city incarceration camp in the desert in Texas - he explains that they’re just “animals” - and you say, “Well, OK then.” (https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/more-5-400-children-split-border-according-new-count-n1071791)

That you have witnessed all the thousand and one other manifestations of corruption and low moral character and outright animalistic rudeness and contempt for you, the working American voter, and you still show up grinning and wearing your MAGA hats and threatening to beat up anybody who says otherwise. (https://www.americanprogress.org/issues/democracy/reports/2018/06/04/451570/confronting-cost-trumps-corruption-american-families/)

What you don't get, Trump supporters, is that our succumbing to frustration and shaking our heads, thinking of you as stupid, may very well be wrong and unhelpful, but it's also...hear me...charitable.
Because if you're NOT stupid, we must turn to other explanations, and most of them are less flattering.

- Adam-Troy Castro