Sunday, May 1, 2016

Visiting a Viking Museum of Invasion History...

We recently learned a bit more about invasion and counter-invasion tactics.  Our lesson started on the day of our return from Lisbon.  We left for the Lisbon airport at 10h00 and arrived home in Paris apres 18h00.  Quelle journee!  Ugh.

It seems that the French deployed an army union to strike back at unwanted forces.  They have been found to be an effective deterrent against invading hoards.  When the armies of transportation union strike, flights and trains and all manner of oxen and donkey cart travel grinds to a halt.  No one comes in.  No one leaves. As in the best Monty Python skits, the tactic appears to be that without efficient transportation into a country, invasions can be thwarted and invading tourist armies simply give up and wander off in some other direction.

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum

As you are no doubt aware, Europe is rich in histories of invasion/counter-invasion.

Take the Northmen, for instance.  For hundreds of years boats loaded with armies from the north sailed and floated and swam toward Paris.  Already famous the (old) world over for it's wine, women, and song, Paris was a somewhat attractive tourist destination.  For hundreds of years, the Vikings visited and toured (or as the French would say; raped, plundered, and pillaged) the Christian monastery of Saint Germain situated just outside the massive fortified Paris village walls.

When the Northmen/Normans/Normands (depending on the written language) finished their visit of Parisian monasteries, they settled in a city called Rouen which is a broad region that would much later be called Normandy (who dreams up these names?).  There they built their own Christian religious structures, including churches, pubs, and a few homes.

We were there once with friends from England to verify the current state of a family plot.  Rouen, as readers will easily remember, was the seat of Northmen/Norman/Normand Power and is where Jude's great-great-great... grand-dad is buried.  His is the natty little resting place found just behind the altar.  So strong were these religious edifices that it took repeated American air-strikes to bring down just the cathedral bell tower.  The Americans, it seems, were short of Jude's great-great-great... grand-dad Peppin Bref's tomb by hundreds of meters.

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum

So it was with a sense of deep familial pride that we were found immersing ourselves into Yet Another Experience of a Lifetime.  Paris, of all places, is home to a Viking Museum of Invasion History.

The Immersive Experience began by emulating the Northmen's spirit of boating tourist adventure.  We navigated a bus toward the museum.  It was easy to feel the Spirit of Adventure and to envision strong, tall, flaxen haired maidens passing down rows of strong, tall, flaxen haired gentlemen while dispensing Strong Drink to help weather the long voyage.  The tradition holds, even today, where Stewards and Stewardesses pass amongst aircraft-swaddled passengers dispensing Weak Drink (yes, it seems that history has been watered down in more than one way).

We could see why the Vikings liked to travel.  Our destination was a Glorious Museum.  It was built strong, tall, and had painted blue (which signifies the seas they crossed in Olden Tymes) and swaths of yellow (which no-doubt emulates the flaxen haired-ness of the people who's lives the museum celebrates).

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum

I will keep any description of the museum itself to a bare minimum so as to not disclose some of the surprising, wonderful discoveries found therein.  But to give readers of taste of the complex, rich, nuanced historic details to be unearthed I feel the need to share two things.

The First Minor Sharing I'd like to make involves fish.  Even under-educated, dare I say disinterested, readers of Viking history will recall that ravens used to follow Northmen wherever they went.  Ravens were taken as a sign that the God Odin loved them and would treat them well.  Odin and his ravens pointed the way to Paris wine, Paris women, and Paris song.  So he's not a Bad God to have on one's side and the Northmen loved him dearly.

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum

What we didn't know was that salmon also followed the Northmen on their journeys.  This is why paintings of schools of salmon could be found as a backdrop to a particularly interesting diorama.  While I don't recall the name of the God of Salmon, we learned that His influence is worldwide.  These Great Fish were believed to follow the Vikings wherever they sailed.  Even today salmon revered in countries as far away as Japan.  It is there that salmon is a Most Important Partner to rice and is called Sushi.  In Rouen, Normandy we call it Salmon Dinner.

The Second Minor Sharing I'd like to make involves light.  You see, the Northmen liked to travel at night, or so said the plaque next to a display.  It seems they needed a way to, well, Find Their Way without making a tangled flaxen-haired black-feathered mess when they collided with their all black as the darkest night and closely following raven pets.  For hundreds of years no one could see a thing and made frustratingly slow progress.

A most significant Pride of the North has got to be the development of Beautiful Lighting Structures that ward off the after sun-down darkness.  The shape and form of each structure is incredible.  The creativity and artfulness has to be seen to be believed.  Each shape, each nuance mean something.  Each detail refers back to Something Really Important in their system of beliefs.  The Northmen Called it Good - Yea Oden! We can See the Light!! And make our way to Paris!!!  While avoiding the erratic flights of Our Raven Pets!!!  Today we call them lamps.

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum

All museums seem to have their Gift Shops and the Viking Museum of Invasion History is no different.  So to celebrate our new understanding and appreciation of Northmen History we enjoyed a salmon lunch.  Continuing our celebration of New Found Knowledge we picked up a pair of souvenir lamps that we couldn't live without.  For us these will help illuminate those dark corners of our apartment where Scary Things, no ravens, might live.  The Icing on the Cake was a salad spinner that was on sale.  Don't ask us.  The significance of lettuce spinning to the Northmen is lost to the Trysts of Thyme.  Still, it was a Must Have.

In summary, the Northmen gave the world many wonderful things.  They gave us salmon for dinner,  and lights to see one's ravens by after le coucher du soleil.  My wife's ancestors gave us the Spirit of Travel and Adventure, and they showed the way to decent in-flight drink service.

For the French they want to say they've learned from their early tourist invasion mistakes and have now staffed and fully deployed armies of transportation union members who can strike at any time, effectively shutting down any invading tourist force.  Our trip from Lisbon to home should've taken 3 hours door to door, but ended up extending to over 8 hours.  We think there's still a leak in the French tourist invasion defense system.  Perhaps their armies of highly trained transport unionists could use further education on how to strike hard and strike deep?

Adventure ~ Swedish Museum
[A whole series of smashingly wonderful photos of our adventure can be found here - including scenes from the yet to be described Petting Zoo!]

Friday, April 1, 2016

Sintra ~ what a difference a week makes

We'd been beaten back by huge crowds and nasty hour long lines to buy tickets.  Sintra had been out of reach.  Or more specifically, the Pena Palace had been invaded by vacationing hoards and all we could do was Beat a Retreat, lunch in town, and return to Lisbon.

Sintra ~ Palácio Nacional da Pena

That had been during the week before Paque.  We thought everyone would be home carrying effigies of the Virgin around their city plazas, or something.

Jude felt we needed to at least give Sintra a second try before ending our own Vacation in the Sun.

Jude found a way to buy tickets to the Palace in advance.  We'd learned the details of reaching Sintra.  And we knew how to manage the twisty winding vertiginous #434 bus ride up the hill.  Our hope was to be able to make a dash into town, up the hill, through the Palace and back to Lisbon before the Crushing Crowds had gotten the better of us.

Sintra ~ Palácio Nacional da Pena

Two days before our Last Supper we were up and out early enough to catch the 9:40am train out of Rossio steaming toward Sintra.

Huh.  Where are the crowds?

We stepped across the street to grab a cup of coffee and to use their "facilities" for the second time in 5 days.  Then it was off to the bus stand, where we found... um... Where are the crowds?

Sintra ~ Palácio Nacional da Pena

Easily seated, this time, the #434 made it's way up the hill and dropped us off at the entrance to the Pena, and... um... Where are the crowds?

Needless to say, our Second Wack at the Palace went much better than the first.  The crowds were practically none existant.  We were able to wander around the Impressive Hilltop Royal Palace Monastery Retreat at our leisure.  Moving from room to room was easy and we were not pressured to "move along" as folks had posted three weeks earlier on TripAdvisor.

Sintra ~ Palácio Nacional da Pena

Jude and I took lunch at the Palace restaurant/cafeteria.  Two chicken curries, a salad, a half bottle of tinto, two decafs, and one dessert set us back less than 30Euro.

While picking up our coffees, Jude asked where are the crowds?  Apparently the Spaniards had tried to invade Portugal the week before Easter.  This explained a few things.  Like how noisy and pushy and generally unpleasant the crowds had been.  It seems like the first three weeks of March had been this way and now things were returning to their pre-Summer Crush normal state of calm, peace, and quiet.

Sintra ~ Palácio Nacional da Pena

As can be seen from the photos, Pena Palace and Sintra can be a great place to visit.  The colors. The shapes.  The Royal Ostentatiousness.  The true kindness and humility of the Portuguese.  All of it.

Sintra had turned out to be the rather tasty icing on the already unexpectedly beautiful Lisbon experience.

Friday, March 25, 2016

Sintra ~ They beat us back...

En Francais on dit "il papa."

The Italians say "il papa."

The English say something not so nice about the Pope.

In any event, we could've used a little Divine Intervention.

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

Jude and I were up and out early (by our standards) to catch the train from Rossio out to Sintra.  The Pena Palace was our destination.  This is supposed to be an incredible hilltop castle built by an eccentric German royal expatriot.  The exterior details are jumbled, colorful, and Crazy Good to look at.

Upon arrival in Sintra we needed to find a WC.  Jude and I spied one right there on the train platform, but balked at the rather steep 1.20Euro demanded to open the door.  Just behind us a more desperate family put their 1.20Euro into the slot and the door wouldn't open.  A rail employee worked (unsuccessfully) to free their money and (unsuccessfully) liberate the door from it's lock.

So much for efficiency.

Meanwhile, passengers were funneling through one and only one exit turnstile.  After a several minutes of standing in a very long queue, and absolutely no thanks to the rail station employee, we saw people suddenly move to the other side of the exit gate where we found four working turnstiles.

So much for efficiency.

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

We crossed the street and dove into a cafe, ordered two bicas, grabbed the key and headed to the WC.  The coffee was good and the two only set us back 1.30Euro.  For 0.10Euro more than the unusable/unavailable/money-eating WC at the train station we got a quick Pick Me Up and Welcome Relief at the same time.

Very efficient, this.

Another long line across the street to await the bus that would take us up the hill wasn't as terrible as we first feared.  One bus loaded and left with the first quarter of the queue and our second quarter of the queue boarded a bus 5 minutes later.

While in line we met a couple vacationing from Nantes/Saint Rochelle.  We exercised our under-used French.  Upon entry into the bus, and as we whipped from side to side up the switchbacks up the steep steep hill that leads to the Moorish castle and the Pena Palace we continued to exercise our under-used French.  We finished our under-used French conversation by complaining that the very very long queue to purchase tickets wasn't moving.  "Quelle horreure.  C'est insupportable!"

So much for efficiency.

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

Jude and I were tired, hungry, dejected, and for the first time on this trip defeated.

Since it looked like it could take upwards to an hour to buy entry to the park, we bid our French friends bon courage and we made an un-characteristic and very un-American retreat.  The vast crowds, the steeply sloped hillside, the unmoving lines, and the prospect of having to further wait just to have lunch once inside the palace caused us to send the White Flag racing up the pole.  So down the hill we retreated with the next bus.

So much for efficiency.  The French can move people in and out of it's major sites much better than the Sintrians.

Very sad at the unexpected turn of events since we were "this close" to the entrance to the Palace, we found a restaurant, ordered lunch, and drowned our sorrows in a shared 50cl bottle of tinto.  After an excellent and large repas we were pleasantly surprised to pay less than 30Euro.

Very efficient, this.

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

Our return to Lisboa/Lisbonne/Lisbon was made, at first, in a nearly empty railcar/voiture/coach.  There were only four of us quitting Sintra.

Back in Lisboa/Lisbonne/Lisbon, up the Baixa we walked (only two blocks from Rossio) to find Yet Another Long Line. This time we queued for the utterly charming elevator trolley that would take us up the hill to the Principe Real.  First one train arrived and took a bunch of people.  Good.  Then it returned and... wot's all this?  Gods!  Not again!!  The driver/conductor/conducteur closed the grill to the trolley and said he'd be back in 5 minutes.  It was Official Break Time.

So much for efficiency.

Ahead of us in the queue was a tour group that sounded very much Italian.  Sure enough, our suspicion concerning their country of origin was confirmed when they broke out in song.  Yes.  That's right.  They started singing.  In the face of inefficiency, they sang.  There was a bit of laughter, too.  There was a lot of shared warmth and happiness.  The singing continued until the by now Well Rested and Very Refreshed driver/conductor/conducteur returned.

Jude found us a place on a box in the driver/conductor/conducteur quarters at the other end of the trolley.  Seated in the driver/conductor/conducteur's seat was one of the Singing Italians of the tour group.

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

We instantly struck up a conversation.  "Where are you from?"  "Paris.  But we're Americans.  Where are you from?"  "Rome."  "Ah, il Papa!"  "Si.  Si.  Il Papa!!"  "What are you doing here?  Rome is soooooo beautiful."  "Ah, thank you, thank you.  We're here because Lisbon is nice, too.  Not as beautiful as Paris, which is second only to Rome in beauty, by the way.  Lisbon is nice this time of year."  [smiles all around]

"Can I have your photo?"  as he points his tablet lens in my direction.  "You look just like [some character from a famous Italian opera who's name I can't recall]."  It was a Good Thing that I was having a Good Hair Day.  The waxed 'stach was behaving itself.  "OK. Take a second, please."  "Oh, with pleasure.  This time with your wife, too" as we lean together to have our portrait taken.

"By the way, my name is Arcangelo.  Just with the angels.  Il Papa and I are like brothers.  We are all close, we Romans."

Sintra ~ Beating a Retreat

There are times when I feel too d*mned much like a German-American.  Time-tables.  Economies.  Money.  Solutions.  Efficiencies. Exactitude. I still carry all these things with me, even after our move to Europe.  How well do these attitudes toward life serve me?  I'm no longer sure.

Perhaps that's the secret, isn't it?  Song.  While not exactly curing/correcting/solving in the American view of things, song might be a good way to respond to the inefficiencies of life.

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Lisbon ~ Findings ~ Initial Report

We needed to escape Paris for awhile and Lisbon called to us.  We'd never been there before and didn't really know what to expect.  So off we went to spend the month of March in a place we knew nothing about to experience things we had no way of preparing for.

Lisbon ~ Food
... with a huge steak there's no room for the veggies...
Steak price?  2.50Euro.  No joke.
Having spent the month of March, what we feel about Lisbon is probably best expressed by way of contrasts.  Paris against Lisbon.  Lisbon against Paris.  So here goes...

Lisbon ~ Drink
Organic porto... the same one Jude found in the US...
Weather -
Paris - Wet, cold, gray for winter months.  It snowed the day after we left.  It's been cold and wet the entire month.

Lisbon - Arrived to 60+F, clear, warm, sun.  Most of our days have been clear and warm, with only the occasional rainy day.


Lisbon ~ Tiger Prawn (before consumption)
Shrimp for lunch - just one - a Tiger Shrimp! - it filled the plate
People -
Paris - Reserved, conservative, and it takes time to get to know someone.  But once you've gained their trust, your friendship is nearly unshakable.

Lisbon - While it's far too early to know how people will be over the long haul, our initial contact with the locals has been wonderful.  Lisboans seem to be warm, open hearted, and quick to smile and talk.  Many people we've talked to seem to feel the French are snobbish and are difficult tourists to please.


Lisbon ~ Frangasqueira Nacional
The white was on sale for 1.89Euro
Restaurants -
Paris - Bistros are shutting down at a frightening rate.  The restos that are left tend to cater to tourists and leaves us with the strong impression that tourists can all too quickly be over-charged and served poor quality food since they won't complain and won't be back after their vacation is over.

Cafe - 2.50Euro
Entrecote pour deux - 60Euro (no sides)
Hamburger - 15Euro
Glass of red wine - 5-10Euro, depending
Mid-day formule - around 15Euro with soft drink (typically no wine)
Indian food - you have to go to the Gare du Nord area to find anything decent and you can spend 45Euro for two people for 2 dosa, wine, and desserts
Take-out BBQ - Ya, right.  No way, Jose.

Lisbon - The restaurants here cater to tourists, too.  But the wait staff are friendly (see "People" above) and the food is great.

Cafe - 0.60Euro
Entrecote pour deux - 29Euro with THREE beautiful sides (pumpkin/sweet mix, potato, fries, salad)
Hamburger - 6Euro
Glass of red wine - 1.50 to 3.30Euro, depending
Mid-day formule - around 8Euro with wine
Indian food - Oh man! Shrimp entree, salads, curried shrimp plate, wines, beers, desserts 30Euro
Take-out BBQ - Whole chicken 8Euro.  Rack of ribs + half a chicken 9Euro.  Sides are cheap, too.


Lisbon ~ Small Things
... from the farmers market - great bread,
sweet potatoes, chorizo sausage, and
two un-marked bottles of fizzy "green" wine...

Markets - 
Paris -
Faux filet pour deux - 15Euro - enough for dinner with leftovers for lunch
Chicken - 11 to 15Euro, depending - enough for two dinners and one lunch
Salmon - 15Euro - enough for two dinners
Lettuce - 1.10Euro each
Potatochips - 3Euro for a medium sized bag of Tyrell's

Organic red wine - 8 to The Moon Euros for table wine
Commercial white wine - 8 to The Moon Euros, depending
Commercial red wine - 8 to The Moon Euros, depending
Organic Porto - forget it, I've tried to find the bio stuff and it's seemingly impossible

For serious drunks - 1Euro/litre in the south of France, 1.5Euro/litre in Tours, 3Euro/litre in Paris - BYOB

Lisbon-
Faux filet pour deux - 5Euro - two LARGE cuts with enough for 2 dinners
Chicken - 2.84 to 3.17Euro, depending - enough for two dinners and one lunch
Salmon - 5.03Euro for two HUGE steaks - enough for two dinners and one lunch
Potatochips - 0.99Euro - locally grown potatoes in LARGE bags - evil-good!
Lettuce - 0.50Euro each

Organic red wine - 4 to around15Euros for table wine
Commercial white wine - 1.89 to around 12 Euros, depending - ...and if you're at the Principe Real farmers market on the first Saturday of the month, there are folks who will happily sell you "green" wine in un-marked brown wine bottles for 2.50Euro - evil-good! with it's tart taste and light effervescence... or just go to a wine shop and see if the white Promessas on sale for 1.89Euro...
Commercial red wine - 2.89 to around 20 Euros, depending... the red Promessas is 2.89Euro - evil-good!
Organic Porto - 12.95Euro at the local Bio shop

For serious drunks - It's hard to beat the 1.89Euro Promessas white or the 2.50Euro "green" fizzy stuff from the Saturday Farmers Market.  However, it wouldn't surprise me if the Lisboans had their own well someplace hidden away where you could fill your own bottles for free.

Portugal looks like it's the "low cost region" of the EU.  No wonder the Germans and French reps in the EU have placed strict limits on how much Portugal can ship into the rest of Europe.  The EU is scared to death that prices would collapse and French/German farmers would starve from selling nothing.  The EU appears to have taken the American tactic of paying Portuguese producers _not_ to produce, just to keep their products off the market and the keep prices artificially high.  True story.  Such is the effect of the Deutschmark, er, I mean Euro, on the nature of "business" here in Europe.


Lisbon ~ Cake
... seen through a patisserie window...
Language
Paris - Well, it is the capital of the French world, after all, so what language do you think is spoken here?  Parisians don't like to make mistakes.  The school marmes made sure everyone learns their place in the pecking order of culture and society.  So unless a language can be mastered perfectly, forget it.  English?  Out.  German?  Out.  Italian?  No way. OK.  In circumstances of extreme duress we'll speak some English.  But don't push your luck. 

Lisbon -   Surprise! Portuguese is definitely spoken here.  So is nearly perfect English spoken by much of the local population.  In the markets people start speaking English the moment they realize we're struggling with the Portuguese. Interestingly, when we sometimes/many-times forget which language to speak it turns out a great many Lisboans speak beautiful French, too.  I bought a hat and spoke only French with the kind sales-lady.  The bums on the streets beg in French to us.  On the other hand, we've had more than a few Americans who've tried to speak Portuguese with us.  No one is shy about speaking just about any language.


Lisbon ~ Dessert (porto + cake)
... goodness in two small packages - one dessert and one glass of porto -
a perfect way to end any meal...

Reality Check -

If Lisbon is so fabulous, why aren't we moving here?  Here are a few good reasons.  

To start with, this would not be an easy city to grow old in.  There are hills steep enough to make you weep.  Second, the sidewalks are narrow and slick.  The stone used to make the sidewalks are highly polished and, therefore, slippery beyond belief.  We're just one fall away from a broken hip.

Thirdly, the summers here can be hot.  With global climate change Lisbon is bound to only get hotter.  You couldn't live here during the summer without an air conditioner or an apartment up in Bretaigne.

Lastly, our friends are in Paris.  It's impossible to leave them.  As we've become friends with Parisians we've come to appreciate the depth and breadth of the experience.  We would have to restart our lives again.  It would be a long process to form friendships in yet another country.  Jude and I just aren't ready to go down that road.  No, not at this age.

For the shoulder seasons, however, Lisbon is just the ticket to happiness, health, warmth and sunshine.  I'm sure we'll be back.

Monday, March 7, 2016

Escaping the Winter Doldrums...

Last year Jude asked a really good question; When it's late-winter here in Paris and after we've become too cold and stiff to enjoy the city and after we've become so bored that we feel we're going to go crazy, would you like to get away to somewhere warm and sunny?  Would you like to thaw out a little?

Lisbon ~ Path to Heaven
... on an unassuming little street...

The search for the warmest, sunniest place in late-winter Europe was actually quick and easy.  It came down to just two places.  Seville and Lisbon are, on average, 17degrees C/64degrees F during the month of March.  Both places seemed to have enough things to do to keep to old people entertained.  As a bonus, Jude's daughter, Jami, said she'd like to join us.

The two of them, mother and daughter, plotted and planned and scanned the internet and found a highly rated apartment in Lisbon.  It would be perfect as Jude really wanted to be close to the ocean and Seville seemed just a bit too far in-land.  A Paris-winter cold digit pointed to a place marked on the map as Terra Incognita Lisboa.

Terra Incognita, indeed.  None of us had ever been to Lisbon and we were concerned about signing up for Yet Another Great Adventure into the Vasty Unknowns.  As in the 1400's, we needed to ask a few serious questions. Would our airplane be able to traverse Large Distances?  Was this city on pilot's navigational charts?  Would the wax that holds the wings melt if we got too close to the sun?  Would the sea boil with Heat and Monsters?  If we arrived safely, would we be met with Head Hunters of the Skull Downsizing kind?  Or would Terra Incognita Lisboa be peopled with a kind and gentle race?  And most importantly, what in the Great Unknown Land do they eat?

Lisbon ~ Frangasqueira Nacional
... and with little to no warning...

Unfortunately, Jude's daughter had work to tend to and couldn't make the trip.  Fortunately, we'll see her later this year.  Which means we have a big (by Parisian standards) apartment all to ourselves and the entire Great Unknown to explore.

Against all Dread and Fear and Concern we left a cold, wet, and very dark gray in winter and safely landed in bright, clear, sunny, and springlike warm Lisbon.  The next day it snowed in Paris.  We'd gotten out just in the nick of time.

In the end, none of our Questions of Concern applied.  There were no Boiling Oceans and no sun-induced Dripping of Icarus` Wax.  No monsters were spied.  All seemed Good and Civilized.  Our apartment was beautiful and filled with light.  The only unanswered question was about food.

Our trips typically begin with an exploration of the regional delights.  It's what fuels our adventures and (hopefully) thrills the senses.  Our Landing in Lisboa was no different. The Arrival Night's meal was spent looking from a windowed terraced restaurant.  A little bat flitted and angled, swooped and spun in the air.  The grilled shrimp and shrimp curry were excellent.  We easily sensed the fact that the Portuguese had strong connections with Goa, India.

Lisbon ~ BBQ
... where things are warm and cozy...

The Second Night led us to a Take-Out Joint that Jude had researched.  Our lives will never be the same again.

I'm not sure that the Portuguese come by grilled meats themselves.  If I read the Charred Remains correctly, BBQ is here thanks to the Brazilians.  There are charcoal briquets in the local supermarkets.  There is wood to season the smoke.  There are meats just begging to be be BBQ'd.

The place Jude found is take-out only and can get pretty darned busy.

Chickens are butterflied flat and placed over a fire.  Turkey is skewered alongside onions (oignon - formerly in France, but now ognon - search me, the French don't like change, yet changed over 2,500 words this year) and green bell pepper.  Ribs, oh the ribs, are just as you've seen in America.  Glorious and ever so tasty.

Lisbon ~ Frangasqueira Nacional
... is a place more properly called Paradise...

Then comes the sauces.  There is a sauce that has a very mild but persistant "heat" to it.  I'm not sure what the peppers are, but they are glorious.  Dripped and laid over hot steaming fresh off the grill meats presents a perfect match of tastes and mouth watering sensations.

For sides, we saw that they have white rice, a nice tomato salad and a couple other things we haven't tried.  The potato chips are supposed to be pretty special.  The last time we were there they had brownies under glass for dessert.

If you need wine, the tinto Promessas at 5Euro a bottle was surprisingly good.  The blanco Promessas is available, as is a small selection of beer.  There is water for those crazy enough to be driving around Lisboa.

Lisbon ~ BBQ
... with a grill manned by a True Master...

How good was it?  So good that we've eaten their BBQ 5 of the past 7 days.  Crazy.  Yes.  We are crazy.  But it'd been such a long time since we'd had anything this tasty.

The Hole in the Wall is up in the Principe Real on Rua da Imprensa Nacional at number 116.  The place is called Frangasqueira National.  The grill is manned by a True Master.  If you stop in, please tell him the old man with a waxed mustache says to say "hi."

Lisbon ~ BBQ
... to the table with BBQ ribs, tomato salad, 
and a few things we added to make a Most Perfect Meal.

[I took a few photos during our visit]

Thursday, February 11, 2016

A most elusive beast...

It's Monday morning and I can't believe it.  I feel like a completely clueless dolt.  Really.  I do.  I missed it.  It was right here.  I saw it in a video someone posted to Flickr.  In fact, it was just down the street from where we live.  Just this past weekend, too. Ugh.  I feel terrible.  And Jude feels terrible for me.  She can feel the anguish I feel.  It may seem silly, but the fact I missed it is nearly unbearable.  I can't stop talking about it, either.

What is the it to which I refer?  The it is the Beast.  More fully said, the it is the Beast of Turin.

A year ago my friend Dave (Citizen Davide - if you must know) sent me a video of the recently restored Fiat S76 Record.  From that moment on I have plotted and planned and schemed and wondered how on earth I could see this in person.  I tried to see it when she ran at Goodwood in 2015, but we were mired deep in government processes in a (successful) attempt to buy healthcare insurance from the French state.  I wasn't sure when, if ever, I'd see her in person, the Beast.



The Beast stands higher than stout but fully grown men (like, for instance, me).  Even from a distance the car looks massive. The cockpit, such as it is, must be climbed into.   The motor dominates the front two thirds of the Beast.  The tail ends at a gorgeously sculpted wasp bodied point.

The cockpit has room for two seats.  Period photos show the steering on  what appears to be the English side of the Beast.  The right hand seat is still, of course, this being England and correct to the original and all that, for the driver.  It makes me wonder when Italy joined the rest of the Civilized World and put the steering apparatus on the Correct Side.  In any event, the second place must be there only to convey and transport one Terrified and Soon to be Rather Well Singed Occupant.  Looking at a promotional video for it's 2015 run at Goodwood confirms that the Terrified Second (in England) Seater will indeed be Well Singed if they're not careful.  It has been suggested that I add that the passenger could be deafened and well shaken, too.

The Beast has an enormous motor which was special built for just for land speed record setting.  This is not an aero-engine repurposed for terrestrial fun and games.  No, this is much more serious business.  It displaces over 28 litres (yes, you read that correctly - twenty eight glorious liters of Italian motor) and was claimed to put out 290 metric horsepower at 1900 revolutions per minute.

The motor is fitted with an overhead camshaft with sloping camshaft profiles.  The configuration allows changes to the timing from a starter cam profile position (to ease the motor start process) to an operational cam lobe profile. This is surprising as even modern engines rarely deploy variable valve duration timing mechanisms.  A hand lever in the cockpit moves the camshaft from one profile to another.

There are three spark plugs per cylinder.  Each were recently hand made by a man in Milan.  It's reported he hand rolls the mica, just like great grand-dad used to, as part of the manufacturing process.  In the interest of being Redundantly Repetitive, three handmade spark plugs are required per cylinder.  There are four cylinders to plug and spark.  I doubt the local autoparts store stocks a useful reserve of them.

The oil system is total loss.  That is, oil drips through the motor from the top to the bottom by gravity feed.  As the oil proceeds from top to bottom it lubricates the many important things that require lubrication.  Sitting in a garage the car has an oil catch pan under it to collect the leftovers and unspent oil.

The crank shaft runs on clam-shell journals.  I thought clam-shell journals were only found in modern engines and remember stories of crank and cam shafts running primarily on roller or on babbet poured bearings.  Interestingly, too, is the crankshaft.  It may be quite massive but it's also hollow.  It saves weight and, more importantly, allows top to bottom bound oil to reach places it needs to (such as the clam-shell bottom-end journals).

The gas tank delivers explosive essence under pressure.  The tank is hand pump pressurized through a line that links a pump to the tank from inside the cockpit.  If you're losing power, give the 'ol gas tank a few more PSI from the pump and away you go.

Two massive chains transfer those 290 horses from a transverse transmission output shaft to the rear drive shaft.  The chains whirl and swirl in open air for all the world to see.  Right next to the cockpit.  Right where fingers and arms might Dangle or Distend.

Speed runs took place around Europe, with the best places for high speed found in England.  One of the Beasts ran at Brooklands.  The steeply banked Brooklands was too bumpy at speed and, the story goes, speed record events were abandoned at that track.   The effort moved to a sandy beach.  Once there, the sand on the beach was not in good condition.  It was a little too soft and the Beast did not perform at it's full potential.  In 1913, running on a beach in Belgium it ran at 137mph, which, apparently, was insufficient to set a new record.

Hopefully this explains my being upset at not having seen the Beast for myself.  I am severely disappointed.

As I mull and ponder the Fates who failed to post alerting information to Retromobile's website a thought occurs to me.  I visited the Parc des Expositions a week ago Monday and uncovered a number of fun things on Move In Day One.  The show ended yesterday (Sunday).  Perhaps I should pay a visit on Move Out Day (Monday).

Entry to Building One is easier this time than it was one week ago.  No one stops to question me.  The building is a-buzz with crews destroying, removing, and cleaning up after the exhibits.  Cars are being trailered or driven from the venue.  Hoards of transporters sit outside awaiting their cargo bound for worldwide destinations.

I ask a security guard "Ou se trouve la bete de Turin?"  "Comment?" he asks.  I repeat the question.  He mumbles "Je sais pas.  C'est un bulot.  Voila.  C'est tout."

I ask one of the workmen.  He tells me he is just a driver of one of the transports and is only there to enjoy taking a few cell phone snaps of the Ferraris that are still here.

I ask an Englishmen in my best French and he just turns and walks away.

As I am photographing a bright red Porsche (red is entirely the wrong color for a Porsche) a couple of workmen ride by in an electric golf cart and one teases me by saying "elles sont interdit, les photos."  So I ask them.  "Comment?" comes the immediate return question.  "Ah.  Un moment.  Elle est deja parti, la bete."  "Merde!" I think.   Well, that's that, then, isn't it?

I've circumvented Building One inside and out and, well, I am dejected.  I really have missed, haven't I?

As I pass one of the huge open doors I spy a few pretty Ferraris.  The 512BB in black (black is entirely the wrong color for a Ferrari) is pretty enough and the Porsche backdrop adds a bit of humor.  A few last photos and then to home and hearth.

One last look around... and... hmmm... I'd better go check out these old cars near a long bank of doors...

My heart races before my mind can catch up.  I feel like a young child who's wish may be about to come true.  And.  Yes.  There she is.  Under tarps.  It has to be.  It simply has to be it.  The Beast.


Draped...

As I contemplate my lack of authority to remove the tarps to get a better look, Stefan (the Beasts visual documentarian) asks if I'd like him to uncover her for me.  Would I?  Oh!  Would I!  My enthusiasm is impossible to hide.

During our conversation (thankfully in English) I learn a lot about the car that rests just there.  Two Beasts were built, then lost.  A chassis was known to exist in Australia.  It's condition was questionable.  An engine (marked on a side plate as Number Two) was found somewhere in Italy.  It was being used as a teaching aid in a Fiat building.  Restoration took twelve years.  The motor is running better than it did at Goodwood in 2015.  They've made a few small changes to the timing that allows it to burn a little cleaner.

A man who I'll call the President of the Association that runs the Retromobile event comes over and we shake hands and exchange a few words in French.  He is a man of obvious French style and grace.  Well spoken in English and elegant in French.

Duncan (the Beast's owner) arrives.  We shake hands and talk a brief moment.  They're off to Merry 'Ol this morning.  I doesn't sound like they're fire her up to drive to the trailer.  Oh well, push it shall be.

I follow the crew a short distance through Building One to the nearest large door and outside to find we're covered with dark rain laden skies.  A few last photos and it's time to liberate these kind folk.  Duncan tells me I don't sound French.  The Basque beret and long beard confuse him.  I say the beard is not French, though the beret most definitely is.  Confessing that I am American brings a the President of the Association to comment that "... c'est impressionante, la barbe."  They turn to push the Beast onto the canvas covered trailer.

I can't believe my good fortune.  I saw the Beast.  A rather minor (in the broader scheme of things) personal Disaster has been turned into Grace.

[My Flickr set of photographs of the 1911 Fiat S76 can be found here]


Beast of Turin ~ 1911 Fiat S76

Sunday, January 3, 2016

Happy New Year!

[Jude shared the following email with friends and family.  All I can say is the French really know how to throw a good party.  With a little help from the Germans, of course.  :-)  ]

I have to share with you the New Years Eve gastronomic extravaganza we enjoyed, and after which, during the early morning hours paid a wee price for!  

Chris and I had accepted the invitation of our French friends, Claude and Renate, for a New Year's Eve theater performance and a "light" dinner in their apartment afterwards. There would be eight of us in all, a nice size group to celebrate the ringing in of the New Year. Claude is 100% Parisien, born and raised in the neighborhood where he and Renate have their apartment. Renate was born in Germany, Berlin to be exact, and has dual citizenship. Claude is passionately French and Renate is passionately German. They have a wonderful blend of the French and the German cultures in their marriage. I mention this specifically because it lays the foundation of understanding of the festivities and meal we all enjoyed.

I was asked to prepare les gâteaux apéritif  for the starter course.   I had to do a bit of research as to what I was being asked to bring.   Figured that out and after stewing over recipes I decided to do my now standard take to the party dish.

Our day preparing for what we knew would be a late night included taking an afternoon nap.   We then put together the appetizers and added a little spit shine to our boots and for Chris some wax to his mustache.   7:20 pm we start our walk up the hill, about 10 blocks to Renate and Claude's apartment.    Chris is the family pack mule so he carried the platter of appetizers and well as a sack with two bottles of Champagne.

The evening started out at a small neighborhood theater where we saw an 8:30 pm extreme acrobatics performance. That performance was a bit over one hour in length. After that we walked back to Claude and Renate's apartment for our New Years Eve dinner.

At 10pm we started out with my aperitif, which was a thin slice of baguette, smoked duck breast, mascrapone,and a dollop of cherry confit (jam), served with champagne. There were 8 of us and we ate all 24 servings. While we were having the appetizers Claude lit the candles on their real Christmas tree. The candles are a German tradition, and so we enjoy the German culture while eating and drinking like French people. The tree also had an antique German tree stand, beautifully carved silver, and before we knew it Renate had the tree rotating and the tree stand was playing traditional German Christmas Carols. The tree stand was actually a giant music box, circa 1800s. After finishing the appetizers and the first round of Champagne we moved to the dinner table.

First course, fresh marinaded salmon, served in large thin slices. Then we were passed lemon wedges and literally a piece of white bread, dry toasted. The butter for the bread was the one with salt crystals in it. Boy oh boy. Can we taste fresh beautiful salmon? More Champagne! 

Well what do you know, it is now midnight and we toast the New Year bis everyone (kiss) and then we sat back down and moved on with the meal.  

Next up was the main plate which was a rustic large spicy sausage and boiled potatoes. The sausage was sliced in thickly and we passed the plate to serve ourselves. On top of the potatoes and sausage we put a very special sauce from the Jura region of France. For the Jura region, think mountains and German style sausages. The sauce was made with a very light milk, half cream and cheese, light but flavorful. Never had anything like it before. With this we had a light red wine also of the Jura region. Plus more Champagne, oh and an occasional glass of mineral water...yep with gaz. Burp, ahh now we are finished, but no! Now the plate of sausage and potatoes reappears and everyone has seconds!

Throughout the entire meal we are laughing and chatting in French. Whee! But we are not nearly finished with the meal. Nope, after the main plate we move onto the cheese and salad plates. Three types of cheese, a Blue, a Compte and a Brie. The salad was mache. More baguette and more wine and champagne. I am by now just drinking mineral water.  

The grand finale was the most beautiful art object of a cake. Here's where I had to break rank and eat a very tasty rice cake with chocolate and a sweet clementine. Chris described the cake, which was several layers, long rectangular shaped cake, layers of light whipped cream, red fruit combo jam type yumminess, chocolate mousse, then chocolate cake, then a light cookie type thin crust and on the bottom a slab of dark chocolate. Killer cake! Beautiful and Delicious!

Now it is 2:15 am and coffee must be served. I passed on that, just way to late for me. We left their house at 3:15 am, having arrived at 7:30 pm! We walked down the hill marveling at the incredible experience we had. 5 am was another story with us waking and both of us not feeling very good. Just way too much food, wine ,champagne, and chemicals I'm sure. We staggered out of bed at noon, and we will be recuperating today.


Happy New Year!